How I Settle In

I've gotten a few questions about my first few weeks in India--how do I get settled in a new place and generally what I've been up to. The two questions are obviously related, so I'm only going to give one response:  you say yes to everything and don't drink the water.

For example, housing?

I put an ad on an expat-directed listserv saying that I was recently come to India, looking for housing within a certain bounded area, happy to live with women and (non-creepy) men, unhappy to live with cats. I did not include my budget, since I wanted a non-censored look at what was out there, and I did not include any information about myself (except that I was an American woman) as I didn't want to prejudice future roommates. (Because, let's be honest, nobody likes lawyers). And then I agreed to go see the apartment of every person who answered my ad. Even those apartments that were out of my price range and even those apartments that were out of my initial geographical boundaries (because, I got to India like 24 hours before I put that ad up--so, what did I know?).

Lo and behold, after about 5 days of searching I found a gorgeous apartment with two roommates (a German girl and a British guy, who have both been in Delhi for a couple of years). This apartment is both (a) a leeettle bit out of my price range and (b) a leeettle bit out of my commuting range, but it is perfect. (If you don't believe me, judge for yourself--below). 

I get my own bathroom and terrace, and the apartment also comes with a daily maid/cook, a 24 hour security guard, an adorable pet street dog--who comes in only for about 20 minutes each night for treats--a washing machine, air conditioning in every room and a private rooftop deck for parties.* And lets just say that the monthly rent, while on the higher end for an NGO employee in Delhi, is probably less than your new Ipad.

For example, food?

We've all heard about the famous "Delhi Belly" and despite my fast and loose history of eating myself through the Indian street food when I was here in 2010 (um, and through the street food of China and Mexico), I have decided a little more prudence may be required now. So, I don't drink the water and I haven't eaten street food unless a friend has specifically told me that a particular stand is safe. But, I'm otherwise letting my companions do all of the ordering for me (because, honestly, my knowledge of Indian food is pretty limited) and I'm not letting the presence of rats (or, say, rat dens) in my eating establishment of choice deter me from dinner. Honestly, there is probably a rat within 2 feet of me at all times while I'm in India so I say the little critters are no reason to say no to what otherwise looks like a delicious curry! (Below, my lunch today--all you can eat thali. Yum!)

For example, socially?

Well as some of you may remember I sent out a cry for help and introductions prior to leaving NYC which you, my friends, responded to most generously. I arrived in Delhi with the names of about 10-15 "friends of friends" many of whom have been quite eager to befriend me.

This, in fact, has been my social schedule for the last week: last Saturday I went to a launch party for a new fashion-based NGO, and then left that party to go to a house party of an expat where I met loads of lovely people. On Sunday and Monday I spent the whole day apartment hunting before finding my perfect apartment, then on Tuesday I spent 7 hours wedding shopping with my friend's mom. (Yep, so it turns out I can't keep up with your average Indian mother on a shopping spree). On Wednesday I spent the afternoon at the studio of this lovely artist that I met at the first Saturday party--she made me lunch and we discussed her art (which is pretty amazing, if you ask me (http://www.baaraanijlal.com/)). Then on Wednesday I met up with two people for a coffee extravaganza (which lasted 4 hours), then met up with two other people for a dinner extravaganze (which last 3 hours). On Friday I had dinner and general hanging out with my soon-to-be new roommates.

Saturday I was planning as a day of rest but then got this phone call around noon as I lounged in my pajamas: "Kate, this is XXXX. Do you remember me?  We met on Wednesday. I'm heading your way to take you shopping. Can you send me your address?"  (Um, no I'm not sure I remember you, but yes! Take me shopping!) I had just gotten back from our 5-hour afternoon spree when I got a call from another girl inviting me to go out clubbing. And there, finally, lying on my bed under the weight of my purchases, still sticky from the sweat of the market and the dust of the road, I did have to say my first no. After all, I already had amazing Saturday night plans--a skype date with my feller.

So there you have it--the key to settling in is just always saying yes and not drinking the water.

*Note, I suspect there may actually be a family living on my apartment roof. To be explored in a later post.

First day outfit

Tomorrow is my first day at a new job, so I've been trying on first-day outfits and have just about settled on the below.

What d'yall think? The whole sleeveless thing--too saucy for the workplace?

What I knew about India

Arriving on Indian soil about three weeks ago, I have to admit I knew very little about the country. I had promised myself that I would read books on Indian history and culture, prior to arrival, but of course in the madcap two weeks between leaving my law firm and arriving in Delhi there was packing to do, flights and hotels to book, parents to calm down, friends to see, parties to plan and all sorts of other procrastinatory events which munched at my time. And so I stepped off the plane at Indira Ghandi International Airport with my entire knowledge of India stemming largely from three sources: Bollywood movies, the book "Behind the Beautiful Forevers", and my own backpacking adventure through India in 2010.

Here are the top five lessons I learned from each:

Form Bollywood movies, I have learned the following:
1. All spunky young Indians have generational conflict with their parents. For men, this usually revolves around their desire to become artists instead of businessmen. For women this usually revolves around wanting to date said artist.

2. Song and choreographed dance is liable to break out at any moment. (I assume that, much like young Chinese children, all Indians are taught the choreographed routines in elementary school.)

3. All Indian women carry around personal wind-machines, which may come in handy when aforementioned song and choreographed dance occur. Or, really, at any time.

4. All Indian women are gorgeous, with milky-white skin. (See below, for example of gorgeous Indian woman, with milky-white skin and using her personal wind machine).

 

5. All caucasian women are sluts.

From Behind the Beautiful Forevers (written by the incredible Katherine Boo), I have learned the following:

1. India is a country of incredible, heartbreaking poverty.

2. Slumdwellers are remarkably industrious, ingenious and focused on social mobility.

3. Corruption is pervasive and opportunity is limited--so much so that at times corruption can be the only opportunity.

4. You don't want to go near the legal system.

5. You definitely don't want to go to jail.

From my own travels through India I have learned the following:

1. When a village elder offers you a liquid refreshment you shouldn't drink it because it could be opium. (See village elder below, who is about to offer me opium)

2. Especially outside of the cities, I am an famous Indian celebrity who all Indian men want to take their picture with.

3. Wealthy Indians are like, super wealthy.

4. Always check street food for cockroaches, first.

5. India is colorful, chaotic, enthralling, crazy, vibrant, dusty, demanding, delicious and utterly mesmerizing.

So there you have it, folks. Everything I knew about India when I arrived. I can't wait to see what new lessons the coming months hold for me!

To Blog, or Not to Blog: Welcome to The Curried Life

Much like the requirement that the White House respond formally respond to any petition which garners a certain number of signatures, when a certain number of my adoring public asks me to consider something--in this case blogging my experiences in India--I find the idea to be worth serious consideration. There are, of course, a number of pros and cons when a woman of my stature considering blogging:

Pros
- Gives me an outlet for all of those bizarre ruminations and questions that pop up during the course of any day (e.g., "Why do most of the auto-rickshaw drivers here wear uniforms?" "Will I ever get my feet clean again?" "What do you mean the pharmacy doesn't have kleenex??").
- Allows me to share my experience with friends and family without having to actually write to people. You know, like individually.
- Gives me something to do on those long Indian nights where I can't venture outside because I'm afraid of being set upon by a gang of savage street dogs/drunken men/rabid monkeys.
- Records my time in India for the benefit of history (or, more likely, that moment 50 years down the line when I force my politely bored grandkids to listen to tales of grannie's glory days).

Cons
 - Takes time. Forces me to be interesting and amusing and to think of witty things to write.

- Would rather be out exploring India than inside writing about India.

- Potentially compromises my professional stature as a lawyer of certain gravitas.

- Brings me perilously close to being the sort of hippydippy who comes to India to find herself through writing.

- May expose my inability to spell basic words.

All things considered, I have decided at least to start blogging and see how I like it. Because nothing ventured, nothing gained, right?

So with this, my inaugural blog posting, I invite you to share in my adventure through Delhi for the next year.*  I invite you to comment and respond (because blogs are lame if no one comments), and I invite you to offer suggestions for the months to come.

You are not invited to critique my spelling. I'm just gonna put that out there right away, OK?

Otherwise, welcome! And for your initial consideration, I offer you this picture of me having ducked into the local McDonalds in a desperate attempt to find air conditioning, taken about 3 seconds before the kindly attendant comes over to ask if I'm actually about to order anything.












Kate
*Or, um, until I get tired of writing this blog.