How I Settle In

I've gotten a few questions about my first few weeks in India--how do I get settled in a new place and generally what I've been up to. The two questions are obviously related, so I'm only going to give one response:  you say yes to everything and don't drink the water.

For example, housing?

I put an ad on an expat-directed listserv saying that I was recently come to India, looking for housing within a certain bounded area, happy to live with women and (non-creepy) men, unhappy to live with cats. I did not include my budget, since I wanted a non-censored look at what was out there, and I did not include any information about myself (except that I was an American woman) as I didn't want to prejudice future roommates. (Because, let's be honest, nobody likes lawyers). And then I agreed to go see the apartment of every person who answered my ad. Even those apartments that were out of my price range and even those apartments that were out of my initial geographical boundaries (because, I got to India like 24 hours before I put that ad up--so, what did I know?).

Lo and behold, after about 5 days of searching I found a gorgeous apartment with two roommates (a German girl and a British guy, who have both been in Delhi for a couple of years). This apartment is both (a) a leeettle bit out of my price range and (b) a leeettle bit out of my commuting range, but it is perfect. (If you don't believe me, judge for yourself--below). 

I get my own bathroom and terrace, and the apartment also comes with a daily maid/cook, a 24 hour security guard, an adorable pet street dog--who comes in only for about 20 minutes each night for treats--a washing machine, air conditioning in every room and a private rooftop deck for parties.* And lets just say that the monthly rent, while on the higher end for an NGO employee in Delhi, is probably less than your new Ipad.

For example, food?

We've all heard about the famous "Delhi Belly" and despite my fast and loose history of eating myself through the Indian street food when I was here in 2010 (um, and through the street food of China and Mexico), I have decided a little more prudence may be required now. So, I don't drink the water and I haven't eaten street food unless a friend has specifically told me that a particular stand is safe. But, I'm otherwise letting my companions do all of the ordering for me (because, honestly, my knowledge of Indian food is pretty limited) and I'm not letting the presence of rats (or, say, rat dens) in my eating establishment of choice deter me from dinner. Honestly, there is probably a rat within 2 feet of me at all times while I'm in India so I say the little critters are no reason to say no to what otherwise looks like a delicious curry! (Below, my lunch today--all you can eat thali. Yum!)

For example, socially?

Well as some of you may remember I sent out a cry for help and introductions prior to leaving NYC which you, my friends, responded to most generously. I arrived in Delhi with the names of about 10-15 "friends of friends" many of whom have been quite eager to befriend me.

This, in fact, has been my social schedule for the last week: last Saturday I went to a launch party for a new fashion-based NGO, and then left that party to go to a house party of an expat where I met loads of lovely people. On Sunday and Monday I spent the whole day apartment hunting before finding my perfect apartment, then on Tuesday I spent 7 hours wedding shopping with my friend's mom. (Yep, so it turns out I can't keep up with your average Indian mother on a shopping spree). On Wednesday I spent the afternoon at the studio of this lovely artist that I met at the first Saturday party--she made me lunch and we discussed her art (which is pretty amazing, if you ask me (http://www.baaraanijlal.com/)). Then on Wednesday I met up with two people for a coffee extravaganza (which lasted 4 hours), then met up with two other people for a dinner extravaganze (which last 3 hours). On Friday I had dinner and general hanging out with my soon-to-be new roommates.

Saturday I was planning as a day of rest but then got this phone call around noon as I lounged in my pajamas: "Kate, this is XXXX. Do you remember me?  We met on Wednesday. I'm heading your way to take you shopping. Can you send me your address?"  (Um, no I'm not sure I remember you, but yes! Take me shopping!) I had just gotten back from our 5-hour afternoon spree when I got a call from another girl inviting me to go out clubbing. And there, finally, lying on my bed under the weight of my purchases, still sticky from the sweat of the market and the dust of the road, I did have to say my first no. After all, I already had amazing Saturday night plans--a skype date with my feller.

So there you have it--the key to settling in is just always saying yes and not drinking the water.

*Note, I suspect there may actually be a family living on my apartment roof. To be explored in a later post.